UPSCALE SEASONAL COMFORT FOOD that tastes delicious and even does good for the planet through careful, sustainable sourcing. double-win.
WHERE: Bergstraße 22, 10115 Berlin.
U / S BAHN: Rosenthaler Platz / Nordbahnhof.
THE DEAL: Simple, seasonal and consciously sourced food. Katz Orange (orange cat in German duh) has a rustic and relaxed feel-at-home charm to match farm to table food. On the website the team say “we respect nature’s rhythms and use its resources carefully”, and by carefully they mean turn it into deliciousness.
THE FOOD: The menu changes with the season but there are ample options for both veggie-lovers and meat-eaters. The actual restaurant can be found inside a quiet courtyard that is part of a historical brewery so you feel like you are really discovering something secret. The interiors capture a rustic charm with exposed brick walls, a cosy colour palette and comfortable furnishings. Basically the perfect restaurant in the depressing, dark winter months. Back to the food - which is great; if you don’t like sharing (we understand) the whole cauliflower with brown butter crumbs and potato elevates usually plainer ingredients into a flavour explosion. The mushroom pappardelle pasta with cheese is also simple but the quality of the ingredients sing through. Katz Orange also nail the whole farm-table sharing thing. Their signature style is the “Candy on bone” section designed for two people or more and offers cumin lamb or pork slow-roasted for twelve hours, served with gravy, lemon garlic yoghurt and pickled cauliflower or roasted veg. You really feel like you are round your mum’s (who happens to be the best cook alive) sharing out a family feast. Definitely order some sides - they are all elevated above the standard. For instance sweet, nutty and crunchy cashews are used to add texture to soft sweet potato and root vegetables are served with a herby-lemony dressing. There is also a salmon dish with soy and turnip - where the salmon is perfectly cooked (a little pink) and the soy just the right amount of salty-sour. This is not a time to hold back so we recommend exploring the extensive wine list (they’ve got more than 150 wines!), with many of them natural and sulphite-free. Finally, dessert won’t disappoint. The grapefruit cream-cheese sorbet may sound strange but its bloody delicious. Creamy and yet it still manages to retain a sharp freshness. The “Mont Blanc” brownie with cassis is also a marriage made in heaven.
THE PRICE: One for a treat or when you are feeling a little flush. Whole cauliflower €18, Mushroom pappardelle €18, slow-roasted Duroc Pork €22 and Spreewald lamb €24 pp. Sides range from €4.5-5.5. Ice-cream / sorbet €3 per scoop, Brownie €9.
PAY BY: €ash and card.
BEST FOR: Cheering up with a delicious family-feast on a cold, dark and depressing winter night.