a memorable michelin-starred vegetarian restaurant where berlin hipsters feel at home.
WHERE: Cookies Cream, Behrenstraße 55, 10117 Berlin.
U / S BAHN: Französische Straße.
THE DEAL: A pioneer of vegetarian Michelin-starred fine dining making their own rules. Come here for plant-based food that’s beautiful, delicious, unexpected and full of surprises.
THE FOOD: Cookies Cream is the definition of ‘cool’ Berlin. Walk off the main road into a darkening and dingy alley way until you arrive at a chandelier and subtle door buzzer. Pretty quickly you’ll be ushered inside and welcomed into a dimly lit, red room complete with plush, velvety bar. If your table isn’t ready it’s a cosy spot to enjoy a drink before being directed up the metal stairs to the main event. When you reach the top the room opens up into a restaurant that is full of life; namely older Berlin hipsters, romantic couples and groups of friends enjoying a blow-out. Delicious smells, buzzing conversation and a modern interior set the scene for the evening. The menu presents two options to take; opt for the chef’s suggested four or three course menu or roam free with the menu a la carte. Wine pairings can also be selected to match the plates, or again you can chose by the glass or bottle. Despite the simple descriptions on the menu, the flavors and presentation deliver excellence at every turn. The three-or-four course menus are definitely the way to go so you get to try the most intriguing sounding dishes. Starters that made our highlights include the leeks with black sesame cracker and horseradish sauce, where the leeks were juicy and soft matched with a smooth, creamy and slightly spicy sauce. Vegetarian caviar was a must-order; served an egg yolk inside a shell with seaweed ‘caviar’ and potato, sour cream, brown butter concoction. Matched with a dry, light white wine makes these dishes taste even better. For mains the baked aubergine was well worth the order; the aubergine ‘meat’ retained a sweet and tangy barbecue flavour which made it melt in the mouth. Parmesan dumplings with Périgord truffle stock avoided any overpowering flavour from the truffle but was perhaps too subtle in taste to be memorable. Desserts stole the show. Celery ice-cream with apple-walnut and herb oil isn’t as strange as it sounds; it makes the perfect refreshing end to an interesting series of plates. Proper dessert people should try the dark chocolate with coconut and passionfruit crumble; scoops of mousse-like chocolate heaven are powerfully rich, but expertly balanced with a subtle sweetness from the coconut and sharpness from the passionfruit. Expect timely and attentive service, which perhaps at times descends into too relaxed ‘I’m your mate’ territory cerca Soho House. Whether you’re vegetarian or not, we’re sure you won’t have seen food like this before and we mean that in the very best way.
THE PRICE: Four course menu €59 euro, three course menu €49 euro + drink pairing. Bottle of Cote De Provence Rose €37.
PAY BY: €ash and card.
BEST FOR: Finer vegan and veggie friendly dining to treat yourself on a special occasion.